NE Brazil 2017 - Pt4 (Potengi - Canudos)

We had a morning's birding the Caatinga area of Potengi with Jefferson Bob again. There were a few targets, with the main ones being White-Browed Antpitta and Ash-Throated Casiornis.

As we parked up and got out of the car, four over flying Comb Ducks were an only sighting of the trip and a lifer for me and we added Red-billed Sythbill to the trip list as we hiked up a steep dried river towards a plateau of Caatinga scrub. Not far into the hike it was pleasing to see a Great Xenops again, but much like yesterday the photo opportunity was difficult as the bird was sat in deep vegetation, although two views in two days is good enough for me. A little further on and we were rewarded with a fairly showy Ash-throated Casiornis, in fact I think we had a pair. One certainly sat out but the light was in the wrong direction, again making photography difficult.

 



Rufous Tailed Jacama, Greenish Elaenias, Yellow Flycatcher, Sayaca and Burnished Buff Tanagers were all we could find further on, so we doubled back and took another track. We were quickly rewarded with at least two calling White-browed Antpitta, we spent an hour trying to pinpoint one down, and eventually were able to go into the Caatinga scrub in search. It took a while but we were able to edge close enough to finally see it. It walked along a fallen log, the spent the next few minutes edging a little closer to us, overall we had good views, we left it in peace feeling very satisfied. Bobs phrase of "Os Ingleses suaram a camisa em busca do Torom!" was very apt as it had been a tough couple of hours trying desperately to get onto the White-Browed Antpitta .

The translation...... "The English sweated the shirt in search of the bird!", it made me laugh.

We could head down the mountain with the two main targets accounted for, we still added more lifers with a Grey-eyed Greenlet, Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, Caatinga Antwren and a Planalto Slaty-Antshrike, whilst down at the car a pair of Green-backed Becards  sat in a closeby tree, and a pair of Tawny Piculets foraged on some snags above our heads.. We had used up a large amount of the morning looking for the Antpitta and had to drop off Bob and say good by. The Potengi area over the last 24hrs had been very productive with plenty of special birds, the highlight bird for me was the Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, but the encounter with the pair of Stripe-backed Antbirds was great fun to watch. I wish Bob great success with his venture in building a birding watching lodge.

Green-backed Becard

 

 

Tawny Piculet

 

 



We has a long drive ahead of us as we were to head to Canudos and the Lear's Macaw area. but we would stop at Crato on the way to visit the Araja water park at Chapada do Araripe. We were hoping to see one of the worlds newest described species, which incredibly for such colourful bird wasn't discovered until 1996 and then only described in1998.
The Araripe Manakin is a real stunner, its range is on the north-eastern slope of the Chapada do Araripe, and we were heading to a Theme Park to try and see one. Almost immediately upon paying at the entrance booth, you walk along a paved footpath that runs along a small stream, this is prime Araripe Manakin area. Sure enough within a few minutes we had seen 7+ females but not a male in sight. As time passes you console yourself that at least you have seen an Araripe Mankin, but of course its the stunning male that makes the journey really worthwhile. Happily after twenty minutes Ciro located a juvenile male, scraggy looking and in-between moults and without tail feathers, but it was definitely a male. Blue Dacnis kept us company while we continued to search, and a little further on Bingo! Just above our heads we located an adult male Araripe Manakin. Great views and a few photos and feeling much much better, we could relax now knowing that one of the main trip targets was right above us. We headed back towards the park entrance where we had seen the females in the hope that if females are about there maybe be males....... such as these things happen in life. No surprises then when a male obliged with a few poses more or less at eye level. We saw at least 4 adult males, 1 juvenile male and over a dozen females. Ciro left us enjoying the bird for a little longer than he should have as we had used most of the daylight up and we had a long journey with poor road conditions to deal with so begrudgingly we all had to leave. It is one of the few times that I have questioned myself when leaving a place with an incredibly special bird if I will actually ever see this species again, it certainly wont be turning up anywhere unusual so the answer is probably a no......what a real shame.

 

Female Araripe Manakin

 



 

Male Araripe Manakin

 

 



We headed off towards Canudos were we would eventually arrive at the town in the dark and booked into the Lears Macaw reserve, tomorrow morning should be just as spectacular as today was.

From our accommodation we set off on a relatively short morning drive to the Lear's Macaw roosting and breeding site, along the way we disturbed plenty of Paraque Nightjars and a single Scissor-tailed Nightjar. We arrived at a small picnic site where we ate biscuits and drank coffee and listened to the now awakening Lear's Macaws. Two by two they passed us in the subdued dawn light, possibly twenty birds flew past. As the sun came up the incredible landscape of rusty arid sandstone came into view. A large Cactus was a great staging post for a pair of Macaws to perch and preen.

 

 

Others flew overhead and perched in bushes, 20, 30, possibly more, a thrill to see. Blue Crowned Parakeets unfortunately weren't going to steel the limelight as they flew past and a Laughing Falcon called from somewhere over there. As the sun came up, we headed a short walk to a canyon where the birds breed in the rock face. A few birds favoured a distant ledge to roost upon while most of the birds flew overhead and probably onto feeding grounds. However a single pair of Lear's Macaws were tempted to land at their nest site but a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle had been soaring in the area making them nervous, they made half a dozen attempts to come in but aborted each one. In the meantime Jeff had noticed a Bat Falcon that had landed on a stone ledge close to where we were watching the Macaws from. It had caught a bat that was partially eaten. Great photo opportunities and stunning close up views of a stunning small falcon.

 

Bat Falcon

 





 





The Lear's Macaw pair eventually sought enough courage to land at their rock face nest site.

 





 

A Crane Hawk and Turkey Vulture flew past the site alas it wasn't a King Vulture. We tried a King Vulture roosting site close-by but to no avail.

As we left the site we picked up a Cliff Flycatcher and Lesser Wagtail-tyrant.

It had been a superb morning in a fascinating landscape and with a truly wonderful species of bird and one of those moments where the bird, the location and the precarious existence of this bird make you realise that what you have just witnessed is incredibly special and not to be taken for granted. .

Canudos, Lear's Macaw Reserve

 



We now have a long drive ahead of us as we head to the "hippy" town of Lencois where we will be visiting the Chapada Diamantina mountain range.

 

NE Brazil 2017 - Endemic birding Pt3 (Quixada - Potengi)

This morning we would have a leisurely breakfast before heading to Potengi, we enjoyed a little lie in where Ross (who we had bumped into the night before) had set of extremely early to try for the White-browed Guans that we saw at Serra de Baturite before dawn, he would also try later on for the Moustached Woodcreeper at Sorbal that we had already missed.

A quick walk around the area allowed me to see the biggest flock yet of the noisy Cactus Parakeets which landed a short distance behind the pool, whist a Grey-necked Wood-rail called out from the reeds. Variegated and Streaked Flycatchers posed for photos but unfortunately the Blue-winged Parrotlets didn't. The resident family of three Pygmy Nightjars had survived the nights tropical downpour and were warming themselves in the sun, before the first trip sighting of a Shiny Cowbird brought me back down to earth with a dose of the mundane! ...... I am currently sat here in the UK wishing to now see a Shiny Cowbird.

Streaked Flycatcher

 



Pygmy Nightjar

 



Other nice birds close-by were a Green-barred Woodpecker and an Ochre Backed Woodpecker that flew off before the camera was to hand, but it gave super views in the sun rather than the previous sighting in the Baturite gloom and drizzle of a few days ago. The pair of Crested Becards were still on sentry duty outside their nest and a Golden-Green Woodpecker was the last new bird before we had to leave. We picked up plenty of Spot-backed Puffbirds as we left the reserve.

 

Spot-backed Puffbird

 

 

Green -barred Woodpecker

 



As we drove to Potengi we stopped suddenly as Ciro spotted a couple of Red-legged Seriema in a field, one strode off quickly but the other stayed around long enough to get the camera out of the window. Great bird..... we also had our only sighting of the trip of a single Ringed Kingfisher.

 

Red-legged Seriema

 



We arrived at Potengi and booked into the comfortable Pousada Menos Paga and quickly travelled on to meet a local guide Jefferson Bob. After a hearty lunch at his home, we drove to his patch at the Sitio Pau Preto area. A host of Caatinga speciality birds were here so we eagerly set off into dry farmland and bush. Even the most common of species such as White Monjita and Rufous -fronted Thornbirds were new for me so right from the very start I knew this was going to be a good afternoon of birding. The endemic White-throated Seedeater and handsome Copper Seedeaters mixed in with the Grassland yellow-finchs and White Monjitas along the trackside and dry stubbly fields, and yet more Burrowing Owls sat on the barbed wire fence posts along the tracks. Bob has a site for the wonderfully named migratory species, White-naped Xenopsaris, I was hoping our timing was right to get us onto this smart bird. Sure enough a pair of males flitted between a thorny bush and a wire fence, my first sighting of the Chalk-browed Mockingbirds (I had missed the ones whilst travelling and sat in the back seat.... ditto for Guira Cuckoos) were also added to the ever growing life list.

 White-naped Xenopsaris

 

 

We continued along the track and parked up, the heat was fairly oppressive but we had no need to worry as we didn't venture more than fifty yards from the car and the birding became red hot. First off, an Ultramarine Grosbeak was giving good views as I tracked it around with the camera but we were distracted by a small mixed flock which held both Lesser Wagtail-tyrants and a Greater Wagtail-tyrant, Orange-headed Tanager, Southern Scrub-flycatcher, Tawny-crowned Pygmy-tyrant and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet (the only non-lifer in the mixed flock). Most of these species are fairly common, but that 20 minutes or so gave me a host of new birds and we hadn't really done any walking yet. Further up the dry track a pair of Stripe-backed Antbirds gave us superb photo and video opportunities, this is a really smart species, we could have stayed for the afternoon, but we had a date with a stunner of a hummer.

 

Ultramarine Grosbeak

 

 

Stripe-backed Antbird

male

 

female

 

We arrived at another area of Bobs patches (pardon the pun, but we were now walking through his vegetable patch, proper garden birding.). Red-cowled Cardinals seemed to be the most abundant bird here, but Bob had a special bird feeding on some flowering plants, we had to wait a while but sure enough it didn't let us down. A stunning Ruby-topaz Hummingbird initially teased us with fleeting visits where it seemed to feed at the rear of the plants giving good views but zero chance of photos. Glittering Bellied Emeralds and a single Swallow-tailed Hummingbird made more frequent visits and fed on our side of the plants, the Swallow-tail Hummingbird can be a very territorial species and often chases every other hummingbird away, so maybe that is why it was only making fleeting visits, or was it the ever calling Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl that was perched high in the tree above us. Whatever it was, things changed and it made more frequent visits and allowed some photo opportunities..... (not sure I fully seized the opportunity though and never did quite nail that shot!). Again this was species that we could have easily stayed longer but we had another area to explore, as we left the veg patch we passed a pair of Little Woodpeckers, a Zone-tailed Hawk passed low overhead and a young Campo Troupial foraged in a hedge close to the car.

Ruby-topaz Hummingbird

 



 





The Owl and the hummingbird

A Glittering-bellied Emerald hummingbird attacks a Ferruginous Pygmy-owl

 

 

The main Target at the last location of the day was the Great Xenops. Ciro had already warned that it can be a difficult bird to see so it was a relief to all when we heard one calling a soon as we parked up, and even more relieved when it showed itself only a few minutes later. Certainly an amazing looking bird and it was one of the species high on the trip target list. It wasn't the only endemic on show, a pair (particularly the male) of Silvery-cheeked Antshrikes put on a display virtually out in the open, and we managed descent views of a Red-shouldered Spinetail, a Chestnut-vented Conebill was probably the best of the rest amongst the many Tanager species, Thrushes and Eleanias.

 

Great Xenops

 

 

Silvery-cheeked Antshrike

 

 

We had cleaned up on all the targets well before the light faded which allowed us some downtime for a beer before we headed back to Bobs for yet another hearty meal. Bob is currently building (with donated funds) a lodge for birders to stay whilst visiting this area and will be a great base for birding areas a little further afield. I can imagine to photo opportunities here are amazing if ou can allow the time to stay for a few days.

Tomorrow we bird locally in the morning before travelling on again. 

NE Brazil 2017 - Endemic Birding Pt2 (Baturite - Quixada)

We had a morning at Serra de Baturite to try for the main half dozen targets, we met outside the accommodation to head for coffee with some miserable weather, as the rain pelted down in the dark, but the mood was very quickly raised as we heard one of the Targets directly behind us but high up in the next elevation of forest. First one, then two White-browed Guans flew from tree to tree alaong the tree line, then for good measure another 4 would pass in front of us. Coffee always tastes better when the bird gods are looking down on you!

A short drive to the boundary of a nearby hotel turned out to be a brilliant location that would be the start of a small birding bonanza. We certainly didn't need to start any playback for the Short-tailed Antthrush as it was already very vocal as we got out of the car, this led us to a very tricky trek down a slippery forested hillside in search of the bird. It dually sang and most helpfully stayed put as a rival bird called in the near distance. Not a lifer for me, but certainly a possible split in the future. This bird certainly didn't give up the best of images but it made the slippery trek back to the top more than worthwhile.

Short-tailed Antthrush

 



Back on terra firma we had a good ten minute spell where we literally didn't have to move while we ticked off more targets and some good species.  A Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant flitted above our heads, and did so for an hour or more, a Buff-throated Woodcreeper, while a Northern Lesser Woodcreeper allowed a few photos, Black-capped Antwren, Pectoral Sparrow, Blue-Crowned Trogon, Variable Antshrike, Grey-headed and Sooty-fronted Spinetails amongst others. A quick show of a pair of Grey-breasted Parakeets was too short, but these would give wonderful views in an hour or so`s time. All this time a Goulds Toucanet had been calling in the near distance but didn't show itself, we tried for a few hours and decided to try a new location. We drove down hill, parked up and walked another trail. A pair of Eulers Flycatcher took my attention as they were lifers for me but were quickly disturbed by a pair of Ochre-backed Woodpeckers. The forest trail was now in dark gloom as the drizzle had well and truly set in so I had to make do with a few silhouetted images of the handsome Woodpeckers. We pushed on in search of the Goulds Toucanet and the Ceara Leaftosser. The Leaftosser was easy......  it took about a minute to locate one as it preened itself on a snag, and then the heavens opened in Tropical fashion. We rushed back down the track to find shelter.

Ochre-backed Woodpecker in silhouette

 



 

Northern Lesser Woodcreeper (soon to be a full species ?)

 



Ciro wanted to get us better views of the Grey Breasted Parakeets and we would need to visit some private gardens that are taking part in a government project that pay people to plant the correct food source and put up nest Boxes (I wouldn't mind volunteering for that) as these birds are critically endangered. It seems funny to be mooching around someone's garden looking for rare birds, but it works and everyone is happy and best of all it helps protect the species. The birding wasn't that bad in the garden, a single  Grey Breasted Parakeet perched in the open for us while a dozen or more flew amongst the nearby woods. Sicks Swifts flew above and a small flock of Common Waxbill seemed to resident, Blue Dacnis, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Short-tailed and Brown-crested Flycatchers made up the numbers.

Grey-breasted Parakeet in the conservation garden

 



The rain had now stopped but we had a time limit to retry for the Goulds Toucanet as we still had to travel during the afternoon. We had a little time to give it another try at the original location. Ciro persevered and it paid off, out of nowhere landed 2 Goulds Toucanet  pretty much straight in front of us. An adult and an immature bird. It was well worth the wait and extra effort, rewarded with brilliant views of a stunning species. We headed back to the car when Ciro heard a flock of Grey-breasted Parakeets, we managed to find a gap in the trees which allowed great views of 10+ birds feeding in a fruiting tree and got onto another lifer when a Moustached Wren called out just as we were about to drive off. A wet morning rewarded with some great birds, and all the targets were accounted for.

Goulds Toucanet

 

 

Grey-breasted Parakeets on the fruiting tree

 

 



We now spend the afternoon travelling to Quixada. Along the route I counted numerous Burrowing Owls, always perched atop a barbed-wire fence post. Endemic Spot-backed Puffbirds were numerous and again could change their name to Wire Puffbirds for their preference of sitting on telegraph wires.

We arrived at Hotel Pedra dos Ventos (Quixada) in time for lunch. Lunch consisted of a Cactus Parakeet that leapt from table to table trying to eat anything that was not protected by the diners (Plenty of real wild ones flew around the reserve), whilst 20 yards away in the restaurants garden rockery a Pygmy Nightjar sat on a single egg in a stone nest, a truly incredible sight and thing to be able to witness. 

Pygmy Nightjar enjoying the sunshine

 



and another in the rain

 



The afternoon birding was fairly spectacular as well. It started with a Black-chested Buzzard Eagle soaring overhead, Gray Hawk and numerous Blue-winged Parrotlets. We were looking for a Grassland Yellow-finch when a pair of Dark Billed Cuckoos flew into a dry thorny scrub area, of course we followed which led to a great hours birding with numerous species giving great views. Pale Baywings by the dozen, Pileated Finches showing off the glorious scarlet head crest, Ochraceous Piculet, White-winged Becard, Variable Antshrike, Black-bellied Antwren, Long-billed Wren, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant. 2 White-naped Jays nearly stole the show until we stumbled upon (yes nearly stumbled upon) a family of Pygmy Nightjars including a juvenile and a female on another egg. This was certainly an interesting find for Ciro who could note some interesting breeding behaviours.

 

Pygmy Nightjars shallow stone nest with egg

 



 

Juvenile Pygmy Nightjar (you can just make out an Adult bird in the background)

 



 

Pileated Finch

 

Pale Baywings

 

Long-billed Wren

 

Black-bellied Antwren

White-winged Becard

White-naped Jay

 



We drove to another location and bumped into fellow a fellow birdwatching couple who I had known would maybe be in the area at sometime during the trip, Ross Gallardy and his partner, we would meet for diner later that evening where we would exchange a few tactics and talk of past experiences...... Ross certainly has some crackers to recount.

Around the reception area Cactus Parakeets continued to show well as did an Ochre-backed Woodpecker and a Green-Barred Woodpecker. A pair of Crested Becards had a nest right outside the restaurant, while the Pygmy Nightjar sat on its egg was joined by the rest of the family within spitting distance of the diners and were certainly the starts of the show. The evening turned into a tropical storm as lightening illuminated the sky, the Nightjar sat the storm out and we all hoped for better weather in the morning.

Crested Becard

 



I managed my first mammal of the trip just behind the accommodation buildings with a White-eared Marmoset.

Tomorrow we head to Potengi