Manaus and Amazonia NP 2022 - Island birding but not as we know it

 Today we leave the concrete city of Manaus and head to our pick up point at Porto da Ceasa. We take a boat and cross the Rio Negro and join the Amazon River and head 45 minutes to Marchantaria Island which is basically a silted sandbank and depending on the height of the river can flood and create a whole host of small islets that are basically made up of treetops and floating vegetation. Quite an incredible sight to be honest and some weird birding as basically all the birds are in and around the very tops of the trees and young bushes just sticking out of the high water level. However...... this Island and islets hold some specialty species and this morning our targets are four Spinetails and a Conebill.

We boarded the boat and left in the dark and as we joined the Amazon River the light broke and a number of Paraque and Band-tailed Nighthawks flew around the boat, we disturbed a number of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks as we traveled at speed. Our first Cocoi Heron of the trip as well as other wetland species Black necked Stilt,  Egrets and a Black Skimmer, a few Amazon Kingfishers perched along islets to our right.

early morning at Porto da Ceasa (Manaus)

and leaving to cross the Rio Negro to join the Amazon River

As we approached our first stopping point infront of a tree topped floating island is the best way to describe it, a Fork-tailed Flycatcher perched on a snag in the strong river breeze, as did Tropical Kingbirds and a small flock of White-winged Parakeets found a fruiting tree a few hundred meters to our left. We maneuvered the boat into a small patch of trees in among the Cecropia leaves where we disturbed a number of ants, anyone on my side of the boat spent the next hour being mildly bitten and irritated. Anyway we had a few species to find at this location and the first was quite easy and confiding with a pair of Amazonian Black Tyrants. A little skittish but the trees were not too dense so we got very good views. The next one up was a Red and White Spinetail, this kept quite low in the vegetation at the back of the island but showed on and off for a while to everyone got some sort of view, a few Oriole Blackbirds were more conspicuous to our left in a bank of grasses. I now got good views of Riverside Tyrannulet and a few White-throated Kingbirds were with the more common Tropical Kingbirds. We moved the boat to a different angle a few meters away to where a White-throated Spinetail had called, we watched a pair creep around the vegetation even coming out above the roof of the boat (the roof did have its drawbacks when tying to see a bird above your head.) We moved again along the island and passed a flooded building where only the roof  stood above the water, I presume this building is on stilts but someone cut the length too short!  Our next target was for Rusty Backed Spinetail which was a little more difficult than the previous Spinetails for we were all happy to get it on the list.  Plenty of other species were seen in this area, Red capped Cardinal, Lined Seedeater, White-bellied Seedeater, Spotted Tody-flycatcher, Smooth-billed Ani, White-headed Marsh-tyrant, Yellow-browed Sparrow..... they really do get everywhere, even out in the middle of the blustery Amazon River. 

Ian and David wondering if there are actually any Spinetails on that Islet

hard to believe that we found four species of bird on this section of islets

in the middle of the Amazon river

Fork-tailed Flycatcher

Oriole Blackbirds and habitat

dad.....you should have made the legs longer

a small window of opportunity, Amazonian Black Tyrant

Pablo had tried unsuccessfully to call in a Pearly-breasted Conebill to we moved to a few other possible islets. We cruised to another location parked up and immediately got a completely new set of birds, Masked Yellowthoat in the very tall grasses, Wattled Jacana, an amazing sight to see a flock of 40+ Yellow-hooded Blackbirds flying across the front of the boat. The Pearly-breasted Conebill did respond and again although quite mobile it did get closer and we again all got very good views of this specialty. Shiny Cowbird, Orange-fronted Yellow-finch, Tui Parakeet again, three Chestnut Fronted Macaws, Green-throated Mango and Brownish Elenia all gave up  extremely good views in this bird friendly location. We still had a few species that we needed to locate and a bit further up river we went in search of another Spinetail and a few others. We sailed through inlets and around Islets passing close to  a pair of Anhinga, Snail Kite, Collared Plover and Southern Lapwings, a pair of Amazon Kingfisher, while an Osprey perched some distance away and plenty of Terns perched on flooded fence lines.  We parked up at yet another location with two species in mind, one we got onto very easily with a Dark breasted Spinetail which mopped up the targets we also added later on the more common Yellow-chinned Spinetail for good measure, more species were seen but not easily as they were out in front of the boat in trees and mangrove type branches were Black-bellied Cuckoo and Black and White Antbird. 

Green-throated Mango

Orange-fronted Yellow-finch

Anhinga, just one of a number seen this morning

of the five species of Spinetail seen this morning this Yellow-chinned was the only one to give a photo

A final relocation was needed as we were struggling to call in Lesser White-Tailed Tyrant, we spent nearly an hour trying to locate the wherabouts two birds were calling from, as a Buff-necked Ibis flew across the treeline someone spotted the LWTT. Once we were on the bird we were able to watch a pair for a few minutes although they were distant and we couldnt get the boat any nearer, a Purple Galinule popped up  briefly before we left and headed back over to Manaus, a Collared Hawk was the last thing seen before we hit the busy dockside.

It was a cracking and very successful morning on the water with over 70 species recorder, the island birding was not what I was expecting at all but very very enjoyable. We returned to the hotel for lunch, to pack the Minibus and the head to the much anticipated Presedente Figuredo which is a city  three hours due north of Manaus. 

We enjoyed a nice stop at an eat all you can restaurant before pulling up at the side of a small roadside cafe where we would look and get very quickly the prize of the day for me. A flowering tree was holding a good number of Hummingbirds. A quick call and in popped a glorious male Crimson Topaz.... a lifer, happy days.  A few other species in the same tree included, Grey-breasted Sabrewing, Black-throated Mango and another lifer for me with a Long-billed Starfrontlet, while across the road at least 10 Red-bellied Macaws landed a hundred meters way.

Crimson Topaz..... ace 

Conveniently just around the corner was a trail, we had an hour or so along here. I was happy with my Crimson Topaz shot and foolishly decided to leave the camera in the minibus, of course I wasn't expecting a Pompadour Cotinga to perch out in the open right above us... doh. The trail proved to be quite lively with numerous good birds including, Fulvous-crested Tanager, Chestnut bellied Seedfinch which I got a quick glimpse of before it flew for cover, not sure if the rest of the group got onto this one or not, Paradise Jacamar, a pair of Channel-billed Toucan, Yellow-green Grosbeak and Golden winged Parakeets... some nice birds to miss photo opportunities. it didn't finish there on the return walk back we got Guianan Puffbird, Guianan Warbling Antwren, Long-billed Gnatwren, Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper among others, at the time it didn't feel such a good few hours birding but the list is very impressive..... a fantastic day.

Once on the bus we head to our accommodation for a two night stay at the Mari Mari Pousada  some distance north east of Presidente Figuredo..... expectations were high.

Manaus and Amazonia NP 2022 - Manacapuru and some welcome Wetlands

 What! a lie in.....

A lie in of sorts this morning as our first birding stop was just at the end of the dinning room. Not 50 mtrs away is a Lek for the wonderful Fiery Topaz humming bird. Basically all we had to do was down a coffee and amble over to a little stream that feeds the waterpark and in a not too serious way, hide behind a small bush and wait for it to come and display. As is turned out a Black Billed Thrush was the first bird to show this morning, so we lined up and waited, fifteen minutes later and just as the night turned to day with very low level light we were treated to some fabulous activity from not only a stunning male but also a female and a juvenile male in pretty decent plumage too. 

female Fiery Topaz

displaying male Fiery Topaz

The group left them in peace to head to breakfast while I stayed on for a few minutes more and watched the male guarding its territory over the stream, the only interruption was the diminutive Wedge-tailed Woodcreeper that landed in the tree behind. The fifty yard walk back to the dinning room took the best part of an hour as bird life had well and truly come alive. The star was a Point-tailed Palmcreeper that moved between a few palm canopies, but it eventually settled in one and pretty much stayed still for ten minutes not moving at all, the angle for the photo was pretty poor but eventually it moved slightly giving a up a shot. Other birds seen befoe we got our breakfast were Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Palm Tanager, Sulphery Flycatcher and three Red-bellied Macaws. 

Point-tailed Palmcreeper

After breakfast we would spend the morning back in the forest on the nearby Campina trail. Yellow-crowned Tyrranulet, Chestnut-eared Aracaris and a Brown-winged Shiffornis that was incredibly flighty, however we spent a good while trying and actually getting good views after some hard work on a Brownish Twistwing, a good result. I think Pablo heard a Lined Forest Falcon and not sure if he taped it in but indeed in it came flew over our heads and perched a little distance away, every one was happy with the view until if flew back again and perched again for a minute or two. A very good half an hour and we hadn't moved at all. We continued down the track managing  to see a few more nice species particularly a Ringed Woodpecker which had been my 2000th species back in 2017 in NE Brazil, better views this time as well. A female Whitcrowned Manakin, Reddish Hermit and Screaming Phia were all we saw before we turned back and headed to the lodge. We bagged our only sighting of the trip with a Rudy-tailed Flycatcher (a lifer for myself) and a Plain-brown Woodcreeper.

strange concrete archway leads to one of the many trails at Cirandeira Bela

if it doesn't scare the wildlife it will the kids.

Vines of the forest

Creepers

and patiently waiting and listening, Jeff, John, Pablo, Ian, Chris, Nick and David

After lunch we again move on to a new location but we had the "luxury" of an afternoon off the hot and humid trails to spend some time at a small port and wetlands enroute to Manaus. It turned out to be a very welcome and productive change. During the transit to Iranduba which is basically a small port and wetlands that sit right on the banks of the Amazon River, we picked up all the easy Egret species, Cattle, Great, Snowy as well as Wattled Jacana while we were in transit. We parked up and scanned the immediate wetland area in front of us where a Savannah Hawk over-looked the area perched atop a large lone tree. A few Fork-tailed Flycatchers moved between wetland bushes and now and again came quite close to the car park bushes, sensibly keeping on the wrong side for us to get clear photo shots. Normal wetland birds could be seen, Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, Striated Heron, Greater Anis in incredible numbers often dropping into the long grasses along with White-headed Marsh-Tyrants. However I picked up a good number of lifers here with half a dozen wonderful Orange-backed Troupial, a confiding Lesser Hornero that gave up wonderful portrait views. Another beauty that gave up close views was a Spotted Tody-flycatcher that sang in a tree alongside the carpark, a Lesser Kiskadee perched and hunted from a few snags and fence posts. 

Lesser Hornero

Spotted tody-flycatcher

typical wetland species Lesser Kiskadee

The moment of the afternoon came when a Yellow-headed Caracara sauntered over the carpark and inadvertently flushed dozens of Sand-colored Nighthawks that had been roosting on a warehouse roof, for a second I really thought that Terns had taken off, it was a spectacular scene. A small mixed flock of Yellow-browed Sparrows and the delightful Orange-fronted Yellow-finch briefly landed on the road from their rooftop eaves.Large billed Terns hawked over the Amazon river as two large nigh sleeper cargo boats sailed into port, the Lesser Hornero and a Southern House Wren poked around on the river bank while another life bird was spotted with a few White-throated Kingbirds, probably one that I would have overlooked if on my own. 

White-throated Kingbird

Sand-colored Nighthawks

Large billed Tern

Goods travelling up the Amazon River from Manaus

Out of character for the birds that we had been seeing we had three cracking species of Parrot come in. Firstly I think three Tui Parakeets came and fed in a tree in the car park, quickly joined by a small flock of White winged Parakeets then at the other end of the port four Short-tailed Parrots fed on fruit high up right in front of us. I took a small detour to another part of the wetlands and picked up Striaght-billed Woodcreeper, Red Capped Cardinal, Yellow-rumped Cacique, a few Chestnut-bellied Seedeaters and we all ended up with a River Tyrannulet and a Mouse colored Tyrannulet. 

Tui Parakeet

Short-tailed Parrots

Mouse-colored Tyrannulet

Straight-billed Woodcreeper

Yellow-rumped Cacique with food

This was a cracking way to spend a couple of hours mid afternoon and I think we got a few species that were unexpected in this kind of habitat. 

Back on the road we head to Manaus for an overnight stay at Ibis Hotel, tomorrow we are back on the Amazon River heading to Marchantaria island.

Manaus and Amazonia NP 2022 - an Antbird day and that means blood sweat and tears

This morning we would be out on the Ramal do medico trail with the first target a singing Musician Wren, how apt.... however despite trying and trying some more we never got it anywhere near to the edge of the trail and in sight, we tried for another one a few hundred meters further on and again without luck. But a bit further on a Black Faced Antbird, called very close but despite its close proximity it was a sod to get onto, lots of movement as we had a pair giving us the runaround but always just out of sight, perseverance eventually paid of and a female gave nice views as it actually for a monent came out of the dence forest edge and moved amongst a fallen tree and branches . It seemed that again we were going to have an Antbird morning which usually means the camera will be useless and this morning turned out to be just that. Pretty dense forest allowing no sunshine in at all made concentrating on seeing the birds more important than grabbing a photo.  I was pleased to eventually get great views of a White-cheeked (bicolored) Antbird with its unmistakable pure white throat and belly, I had missed it a few hundred meters down the track where it was incredibly flighty... phew. Two Dusky Parrots called in flight and we spotted them as they flew into and out of sight in a gap in the canopy we also picked up a calling White crested Spadebill.   

The next hour was solely with the Antbirds, as usual most are difficult and then every now and again a stunner shows pretty well for you. A Yellow-browed Antbird was certainly the former, my notes show that I missed it twice while some of the other group members connected, it took me a third attempt down the track to pick one up, however a pair of Cinereous Antshrikes gave quick buy very good views.... it must be a numbers game eh. Then the start of another Antbird fest as a very helpful Pearly Antshrike was spotted high up and maneuvering in the under canopy, showing pretty well for a prolonged period, great bird. A Rio Negro (Rufous-backedAntwren, or Stipple-throated Antwren...... ) or just Stipplethroat also gave good views as it passed the track back and forth a few times. Not to be outdone a Grey Antbird and Long-winged Antwren were added to the ever growing morning list. A Blue-crowned Manakin was a break from the skulkers unfortunately we could only muster a sighting of the rather drab female, we have to be quite thankful for the lady of the family, it wasn't a life bird so not a disaster. We had walked  as far as we were going to go up the track where it became flooded so Pablo tried once more for the Musician Wren (seems along time ago since we were starring intensely into a dense dense forest looking for two singing birds at daybreak this morning). Right on queue another bird responded, very close. After a little skulking around at ground level amongst tangles and thicket everyone got onto it with some sort of acceptable view. However a few moments later it moved right and perched up at eye-level maybe thirty meters into the forest but it sat and sang for nearly twenty minutes, giving brilliant scoped views for everyone to enjoy, it was probably still singing as we left.... A fantastic, moment with a fantastic bird. 

We had to head back the way we came (as most tracks in the Amazon tend to be) and along the way we picked up a Waved Woodpecker that had a nest inside a huge termite nest high up on a trunk. A White-flanked Antwren, Paradise Tanager, Spotted Tanager, two or three more female Blue-crowned Manakins, Swallow-winged Puffbird and Streaked Flycatcher were all that we could muster (I once again missed a Lafresnayes Woodcreeper) before boarding our minibus and getting back to the lodge for a shower and lunch. 

Waved Woodpecker

spot the ball or the birds, underside and partially blocked views of Spotted Tanager and ........ 

a very common Swallow-winged Puffbird

This afternoon we move on again and head to Manacapura on the Northern banks of the Amazon River. Here we would be staying at Cirandeira Bela, Amazon cabins.

very pleasant accommodation at Cirandeira Bela

its only a statue but you just never know..... one or two have been seen here over the past few years

Cirandeira Bela turned out to be a kind of Cenre Parcs and was packed with day trippers enjoying the pools and water activities getting away from the city for the day. However busy it was, it was handy for a few special bird species with one in particular very close to our lodgings. After check in we hit a very close trail and the birding was tough and very slow, we only managed five species in well over an hour, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin which took far too long to get any sort of view that wasn't just of its underside or backside, Mouse-colored Antbird, Yellow-throated Woodpecker and a Green-backed Trogan. 

the underside of a Yellow-throated Woodpecker..... 

sometimes it really isn't worth taking the camera and today was one of those days.

This morning was hard but good birding with a lot of skulking species seen and one or two cracking birds, Muscian Wren may top them all today.

Bloody hard work in this heat and humidity

In line, Pablo, Ian, Jeff, Bart, Chris, Nick, David, John.... yours truly always behind

 Tomorrow we get a lie in of sorts as the star bird would be 50 meters from the dinning room and daybreak will do just fine.

Manaus and Amazonia NP 2022 - Cruising the flooded forest of the Rio Negro

Birding in South America always starts with a pre 5 am coffee, today we would share an early coffee with dozens of triathletes who were getting ready to compete in today's races on the river and roads, fortunately we would take a short drive to the banks of the Rio Negro to catch a boat that would take us on a days river cruising in search of some specialised species that hopefully will be feeding within the tree tops at eye level.... yes eye level. 5 mtrs below the vast expanse of the flooded Rio negro are where the trees are grounded, it will take another 5 months for the river to actually drain back to normal levels..... nature is really incredible. 

No bus stops around here, your only going to find a boat stop. Early morning waiting for a boatman

ready to board our boat with a mind blowing sunrise to sail into...... it doesn't get much better

Not too far up river we sailed across to be now on the Manaus side of the Rio Negro, we took a side tributary where we were followed by at least two Pink River Dolphins, while in the dawn light probably over a dozen Band tailed Nighthawks swooping over and around us feeding up before going to roost. This morning I was out at the back of the boat so was conscious that I may miss a few species as they may have flown before the back markers could get their eyes on the target, however out front of the boat and to the left I caught a glimpse of a Sungrebe come up to the surface and quickly retreat behind a small island. A small flock of Festive Parrots flew across the boat and away, lots of Yellow Rumped Caciques and a Large billed Tern did likewise. Our driver guided the boat slowly towards the edge of an island where we parked up and watched good activity in front and to the side of us for the next hour. A Pale vented Pigeon, and a perched Red-capped Cardinal started proceedings while a pair of flighty but showy (if that is at all possible...) Black-crested Antshrikes that stayed with us for the duration. A Striated Heron flew behind us and landed on a small island however it didnt keep anyone's attention as all the activity was right in front of us. Spotted tody-flycatcher, Blue-tailed Emerald, Slender footed Tyrannulet and the wonderful Cherries Antwren, although it wasn't a lifer for me it is a smashing bird to see for a second time. Short crested Flycatcher, Striped Woodcreeper, Greater Kiskadee unfortunately I missed the Amazonian Tyrannulet (back seat bogey bird). The incredible and huge Long Billed Woodcreeper was another bird high on my trip list and this one gave superb views , as we set off towards the flooded Varzea forest numerous Greater Ani`s flew around as we passed a perched Roadside hawk, who was now more intent on being a Riverside hawk. 

Long-billed Woodcreeper

As we approached the flooded forest, it really is hard to describe how incredible this was. The driver had to manoveur a twenty foot boat through and round tangles, branches, tree trunks dense dense foliage all while he kept all  his passengers dry and safe, he did very well. However before he did this he had stopped just on the edge of the forest where Pablo eventually was able to call in a Klages Antwren which is really the specialty bird of this part of the river, so it was a success to see it pretty quickly, a pair of Green Tailed Jacamars perched just in front of us for a good five minutes and we bagged a Leaden Antwren before we moved on and navigate through the forest. 

Leaden Antwren

Green-tailed Jacamar

this is where I dipped the Ash-breasted Antbird, being at the back has it s downside

a fairly easy passage through the flooded forest on this occasion

The only trip sighting of a Crested Orependola was just before we entered the forest and then came to a sudden halt, partly because we were stuck and would have to pull ourselves through the tangles (remember we are still in a twenty foot boat) and partly because we were trying to locate a Black-chinned Antbird, which we eventually did, all awhile a  incredible Common Potoo had been perched high above us with one eye wondering what all the commotion was about, while the other eye tried to get some sleep.... And of course our third Potoo species in the past 12 hours, absolutely mind blowing. Add a Zimmers Woodcreeper, Green Kingfisher and Blackisk Antshrike this was a brilliant area to visit. We moved on down some channels and into another tight spot of flooded forest and we tried hard for yet another Antbird, this time an Ash Breasted that I missed from the back of the boat... damn. A Cinnamon Atilla and a flighty Varzea Schiffornis that must have given itself a mighty headache as it crashed left and right, yet another Woodcreeper appeared this time a Streaked Woodcreeper. 

Common Potoo

Zimmers Woodcreeper

Flooded forest on the Rio Negro

We backed up and out finding another channel to cruise down, we stopped to get onto a pair of Snethlages Tody-Tyrants of which one flew down fairly close above our heads we continued where we would have one of the highlights of the tour. This is where we cruised into the lek of a dozen or so Wire-tailed Manakins. It was madness, buzzing bees everywhere, incredible sight to watch them going through their rituals without actually pissing each other off too much, I only saw a single female watching on. It wouldnt have been too hard to stay here for an hour or two much, it was non stop action, and we must not forget that Pablo called out a Speckled Spinetail while all this was going on. 

Wire-tailed Manakins

A Waved Woodpecker briefly flew over and climbed a trunk. Meanwhile above us a Brown throated three toed Sloth had quickly in a sloths sort of quick-way climbed down from its branch and out of sight.  There was still time to cruise to yet another dense patch of forest where Pablo again had a spot for a specialist species, this time a Streak-throated Hermit. There were at least two individuals calling and one was fairly close to us. We had to stand up ensuring we didn't rock the boat and try to get onto this diminutive creature in this foliage in the shadowy gloom, while on water.... of course it was difficult, and most of us got a descent view however Pablo and the boat driver decided to try around the back of this tree which meant maneuvering out backwards, he did and we got a good vantage point to see the second calling individual perched up for a few minutes. Once we rejoined the main river we set off back to the hotel but not before a Great-black Hawk and Plumbeous Kite both circled above the river. A terrific morning with almost all specialty species seen, a constant tick over of sightings made for an enjoyable boat ride back. What a morning, certainly the best yet.

Brown Throated Sloth

Dont rock the boat..... Holding steady looking for a Streaked Hermit in the thick forest

Selfie with the team heading for lunch and a beer after a very successful morning with Nick, Jeff and Bart leading the celebrations, while Chris and Ian think about a cold beer and our driver thinking we are all mad

Normal procedure for lunchtime as we settled for lunch and either had a siesta or did a spot of birding around the garden. Again Black-billed (or Flood Plain) Thrush was seen also and a first for the trip a small flock of Orange-fronted Yellow Finch, at first we thought they were Saffron finch. This afternoon we were back on the water but now going up river and staying on the Anavilhanas National park side of the river. Again there were a couple of specialties of this area that we were in search for, this time I was in the front of the boat, what could go wrong? All along the way up river we saw dozens of perched Swallow-winged Puffbirds, a new species for the trip while Grey breasted Martins and White winged Swallows hawked all around, the large and unmistakable Ringed Kingfisher passed in front of us on its way across the vast expanse of the Rio Negro towards Manaus, while we picked up Brown-chested Martins as well. 

Orange-fronted Yellow Finch

reflections of a flooded forest on the Rio Negro

The main target here was a Brown headed Greenlet and only a few individuals are located in this area. Pablo tried half a dozen known locations all of which were fruitless, a big dip for today. A Hook-billed Kite flew over and was mobbed for a short while, while Swallow tailed Kites and Plumbeous Kites made for at least a little activity. We again cruised down a channel hoping for an upturn in action but the birding had pretty much slowed down in the heat and what seemed to be the only bird activity in the area were a party of 8 Black fronted Nunbirds that flew over our heads and congregated behind us high up for a while. It wasnt completely lifeless as a small selection of species showed over the next two hours with another Zimmers Woodcreeper, Blue Dacnis, Squirrel Cuckoo (the first of the trip), Green backed Trogan, Yellow Headed Caracara, a pair of White throated Toucans perched, and at last I got to see an Amazonian Tyrannulet for the first time as it zipped in and out of the edge of a small island. Two Orange cheeked Parrots flew over our boat and out of sight but just before packing in an afternoon saver for myself as we found three Ivory-billed Aracari. As we headed back up the river to our hotel we watched a Bat Falcon taking bats on the wing while Band Tailed Nighthawks in their dozens came out to hunt. The setting sun gave us a perfect backdrop to what was overall a good day but a the afternoon couldnt live up to the mornings fare, although saying that I personally added  two life birds to my list.  

unfortunately looking into the sun at this Ivory-billed Aracari

Sun setting on the Rio Negro