Manaus and Amazonia NP 2022 - Cruising the flooded forest of the Rio Negro

Birding in South America always starts with a pre 5 am coffee, today we would share an early coffee with dozens of triathletes who were getting ready to compete in today's races on the river and roads, fortunately we would take a short drive to the banks of the Rio Negro to catch a boat that would take us on a days river cruising in search of some specialised species that hopefully will be feeding within the tree tops at eye level.... yes eye level. 5 mtrs below the vast expanse of the flooded Rio negro are where the trees are grounded, it will take another 5 months for the river to actually drain back to normal levels..... nature is really incredible. 

No bus stops around here, your only going to find a boat stop. Early morning waiting for a boatman

ready to board our boat with a mind blowing sunrise to sail into...... it doesn't get much better

Not too far up river we sailed across to be now on the Manaus side of the Rio Negro, we took a side tributary where we were followed by at least two Pink River Dolphins, while in the dawn light probably over a dozen Band tailed Nighthawks swooping over and around us feeding up before going to roost. This morning I was out at the back of the boat so was conscious that I may miss a few species as they may have flown before the back markers could get their eyes on the target, however out front of the boat and to the left I caught a glimpse of a Sungrebe come up to the surface and quickly retreat behind a small island. A small flock of Festive Parrots flew across the boat and away, lots of Yellow Rumped Caciques and a Large billed Tern did likewise. Our driver guided the boat slowly towards the edge of an island where we parked up and watched good activity in front and to the side of us for the next hour. A Pale vented Pigeon, and a perched Red-capped Cardinal started proceedings while a pair of flighty but showy (if that is at all possible...) Black-crested Antshrikes that stayed with us for the duration. A Striated Heron flew behind us and landed on a small island however it didnt keep anyone's attention as all the activity was right in front of us. Spotted tody-flycatcher, Blue-tailed Emerald, Slender footed Tyrannulet and the wonderful Cherries Antwren, although it wasn't a lifer for me it is a smashing bird to see for a second time. Short crested Flycatcher, Striped Woodcreeper, Greater Kiskadee unfortunately I missed the Amazonian Tyrannulet (back seat bogey bird). The incredible and huge Long Billed Woodcreeper was another bird high on my trip list and this one gave superb views , as we set off towards the flooded Varzea forest numerous Greater Ani`s flew around as we passed a perched Roadside hawk, who was now more intent on being a Riverside hawk. 

Long-billed Woodcreeper

As we approached the flooded forest, it really is hard to describe how incredible this was. The driver had to manoveur a twenty foot boat through and round tangles, branches, tree trunks dense dense foliage all while he kept all  his passengers dry and safe, he did very well. However before he did this he had stopped just on the edge of the forest where Pablo eventually was able to call in a Klages Antwren which is really the specialty bird of this part of the river, so it was a success to see it pretty quickly, a pair of Green Tailed Jacamars perched just in front of us for a good five minutes and we bagged a Leaden Antwren before we moved on and navigate through the forest. 

Leaden Antwren

Green-tailed Jacamar

this is where I dipped the Ash-breasted Antbird, being at the back has it s downside

a fairly easy passage through the flooded forest on this occasion

The only trip sighting of a Crested Orependola was just before we entered the forest and then came to a sudden halt, partly because we were stuck and would have to pull ourselves through the tangles (remember we are still in a twenty foot boat) and partly because we were trying to locate a Black-chinned Antbird, which we eventually did, all awhile a  incredible Common Potoo had been perched high above us with one eye wondering what all the commotion was about, while the other eye tried to get some sleep.... And of course our third Potoo species in the past 12 hours, absolutely mind blowing. Add a Zimmers Woodcreeper, Green Kingfisher and Blackisk Antshrike this was a brilliant area to visit. We moved on down some channels and into another tight spot of flooded forest and we tried hard for yet another Antbird, this time an Ash Breasted that I missed from the back of the boat... damn. A Cinnamon Atilla and a flighty Varzea Schiffornis that must have given itself a mighty headache as it crashed left and right, yet another Woodcreeper appeared this time a Streaked Woodcreeper. 

Common Potoo

Zimmers Woodcreeper

Flooded forest on the Rio Negro

We backed up and out finding another channel to cruise down, we stopped to get onto a pair of Snethlages Tody-Tyrants of which one flew down fairly close above our heads we continued where we would have one of the highlights of the tour. This is where we cruised into the lek of a dozen or so Wire-tailed Manakins. It was madness, buzzing bees everywhere, incredible sight to watch them going through their rituals without actually pissing each other off too much, I only saw a single female watching on. It wouldnt have been too hard to stay here for an hour or two much, it was non stop action, and we must not forget that Pablo called out a Speckled Spinetail while all this was going on. 

Wire-tailed Manakins

A Waved Woodpecker briefly flew over and climbed a trunk. Meanwhile above us a Brown throated three toed Sloth had quickly in a sloths sort of quick-way climbed down from its branch and out of sight.  There was still time to cruise to yet another dense patch of forest where Pablo again had a spot for a specialist species, this time a Streak-throated Hermit. There were at least two individuals calling and one was fairly close to us. We had to stand up ensuring we didn't rock the boat and try to get onto this diminutive creature in this foliage in the shadowy gloom, while on water.... of course it was difficult, and most of us got a descent view however Pablo and the boat driver decided to try around the back of this tree which meant maneuvering out backwards, he did and we got a good vantage point to see the second calling individual perched up for a few minutes. Once we rejoined the main river we set off back to the hotel but not before a Great-black Hawk and Plumbeous Kite both circled above the river. A terrific morning with almost all specialty species seen, a constant tick over of sightings made for an enjoyable boat ride back. What a morning, certainly the best yet.

Brown Throated Sloth

Dont rock the boat..... Holding steady looking for a Streaked Hermit in the thick forest

Selfie with the team heading for lunch and a beer after a very successful morning with Nick, Jeff and Bart leading the celebrations, while Chris and Ian think about a cold beer and our driver thinking we are all mad

Normal procedure for lunchtime as we settled for lunch and either had a siesta or did a spot of birding around the garden. Again Black-billed (or Flood Plain) Thrush was seen also and a first for the trip a small flock of Orange-fronted Yellow Finch, at first we thought they were Saffron finch. This afternoon we were back on the water but now going up river and staying on the Anavilhanas National park side of the river. Again there were a couple of specialties of this area that we were in search for, this time I was in the front of the boat, what could go wrong? All along the way up river we saw dozens of perched Swallow-winged Puffbirds, a new species for the trip while Grey breasted Martins and White winged Swallows hawked all around, the large and unmistakable Ringed Kingfisher passed in front of us on its way across the vast expanse of the Rio Negro towards Manaus, while we picked up Brown-chested Martins as well. 

Orange-fronted Yellow Finch

reflections of a flooded forest on the Rio Negro

The main target here was a Brown headed Greenlet and only a few individuals are located in this area. Pablo tried half a dozen known locations all of which were fruitless, a big dip for today. A Hook-billed Kite flew over and was mobbed for a short while, while Swallow tailed Kites and Plumbeous Kites made for at least a little activity. We again cruised down a channel hoping for an upturn in action but the birding had pretty much slowed down in the heat and what seemed to be the only bird activity in the area were a party of 8 Black fronted Nunbirds that flew over our heads and congregated behind us high up for a while. It wasnt completely lifeless as a small selection of species showed over the next two hours with another Zimmers Woodcreeper, Blue Dacnis, Squirrel Cuckoo (the first of the trip), Green backed Trogan, Yellow Headed Caracara, a pair of White throated Toucans perched, and at last I got to see an Amazonian Tyrannulet for the first time as it zipped in and out of the edge of a small island. Two Orange cheeked Parrots flew over our boat and out of sight but just before packing in an afternoon saver for myself as we found three Ivory-billed Aracari. As we headed back up the river to our hotel we watched a Bat Falcon taking bats on the wing while Band Tailed Nighthawks in their dozens came out to hunt. The setting sun gave us a perfect backdrop to what was overall a good day but a the afternoon couldnt live up to the mornings fare, although saying that I personally added  two life birds to my list.  

unfortunately looking into the sun at this Ivory-billed Aracari

Sun setting on the Rio Negro